Madawaska — Day 1

I was shocked to discover, looking back over this blog prior to writing this post, that it has been almost three years since I documented any kind of scooter trip here, and seven years since my last overnight scooter trip, the trip to Lubec which constituted Robin’s last trip in 2018, just three weeks before she died. If you read that post, you will see that the rationale for that trip to Lubec was the Four Corners of Maine tour, and — again — I can’t believe that it has now taken me seven years to try and complete it.

The southern and western corners of the Tour (Kittery Trading Post and Grafton Notch State Park, respectively) I did accomplish about five years ago, with Francis (see previous post); thereafter, RV trips became the focus of this blog. Today, at long last, I finally undertook to complete the Four Corners of Maine Tour, heading off alone under autumn skies on my trusty Suzuki Burgman 650 to Madawaska, Maine and the fourth (and final) corner of my seven-year itinerary. It’s both odd and totally inexplicable, I realize, but more than once today I could see Robin’s Honda PCX150 in its customary place just ahead of me, and Francis’ old Aprilia Scarabeo 200 lagging along behind in the mirrors (at 45MPH, no matter the actual speed limit, which was the way Francis always liked to ride). So it is left to me now to complete this tour alone, as my beloved riding companions over a dozen years now travel more celestial routes. And today — finally — I am getting it done.

An unseasonably warm September has temporarily yielded to premonitions of autumn, as the bright sunshine belied an air temperature of barely 60F, with a gusty wind making it feel even colder and challenging the bike to stay the course I set. Fortunately, my Aerostich Roadcrafter Classic suit is eminently windproof, and the Burgman’s heated grips proved most welcome. I should next say a couple of words about the route I have chosen for this trip, as there are a number of ways to approach Madawaska, depending on one’s preferences and the time available.

The fastest way to northern Maine from the south is via I-95. Those who enjoy riding this “superslab” (as those in the biker community refer to interstates) can take it to Houlton and then follow US-1 north another three hours to Madawaska, cruising up the more populous eastern border of Maine. Or, you can exit I-95 at Sherman Mills and follow ME-11 west and north, the outstanding National Scenic Byway that skirts beautiful Eagle Lake and then meets US-1 at its terminus in Fort Kent, where — turning east — Madawaska lies about an hour away. So then, ME-11 is the western approach to Madawaska; US-1 is the eastern approach to Madawaska, and Madawaska lies about midway between the two.

I, personally, hate to ride the interstates, as — for me — the risks far outweigh the rewards. Traffic is moving faster, upping the risk, and the highway is often strewed with “road gators”, the tattered remnants of truck-tire retreads which have blown apart on the road. Add to this the pummeling you take from the bow shocks of passing semis, and the boring sameness of the scenery mile after mile, and it’s just not worth it to me. So what did I choose to do instead?

Today, I decided to access US-202 near Augusta and stay on it until its terminus at I-395 in Bangor. From there, I rode one very short interstate exit east to US-1A and followed that north and east to its junction with US-2. ME-157 leaves US-2 outside of Mattawamkeag (love those indigenous names!) and brought me to Medway. Less than an hour before reaching ME-157, however, one arrives in Lincoln, Maine, hard astride the beautiful Penobscot River. This lovely riverside park with its adorable and totally appropriate-for-the-location children’s play sculpture awaits in the center of town.

A short ride from Lincoln on US-2 brings one to ME-157 which passes through Medway to Millinocket (the last bastion of civilization for paddlers entering the North Maine Woods for the West Branch of the Penobscot or the St. John Rivers, and hikers headed for Baxter State Park and Mt. Katahdin). ME-157 will intersect ME-11 in Millinocket for the ride north to Ashland, Eagle Lake, Fort Kent and Madawaska.

I chose Medway for my first night’s stay as I believe that it will break the trip into four roughly-equal segments. Tomorrow, God willing, I will be in Madawaska. Back to Medway the next day, and home the day after that.

I am lodged tonight at the Rivers Edge Motel in Medway (to which I will return, two days hence), an interesting and economical stop with a classic motel on one side of the driveway, and the proprietors’ home with office on the other. I was greeted upon arrival by the lovely and convivial Michelle, who pointed out that ITS-83 crossed the property along the Penobscot River, and I could follow it in either direction for excellent views. The following description comes from the ITS website: Maine’s Interconnected Trail System (ITS) is provided to snowmobilers through the joint effort of the Maine Snowmobile Association and the Snowmobile Division of the Maine Bureau of Parks and Lands, Department of Conservation under the direction of the MSA Trails Committee. The trails themselves are created through the efforts of the snowmobile clubs, the Snowmobile Division, local municipalities, supporting businesses and the many landowners throughout the state of Maine who generously allow access to sledders.

In short, the ITS is hundreds and hundreds of miles of snowmobile and ATV trails throughout northern and western Maine and beyond, constituting one of the greatest attributes of this region and a mainstay of its economy, especially in winter. Interested readers can find lodging and snowmobile rentals throughout the northern half of the state, all along the ITS, all winter long. ITS-83 runs right behind the motel:

Doesn’t look like much now, but this winter it will be an immaculately groomed superhighway for snowmobiles connecting to trails all across Maine and on into New Hampshire, Vermont and New Brunswick as well.

Here are the views up- and downriver from where the ITS passes the motel:

The fall foliage is approaching peak in this region, as evidenced in this photo:

Michelle said that if I walked about a half-mile to the left on the ITS, I would come to a bridge over the river from which is a view of Mt. Katahdin. I did so but could not see the mountain, perhaps due to low clouds. However, I did capture this photo of the Medway dam, by means of which Brookfield Energy generates electric power:

My motel room is efficient and scrupulously clean, with all the necessities but without embellishment. You can see all of it in this photo except for the desk to the right (amusingly covered, for reasons I cannot fathom, with a plastic sheet!) and the bathroom. You can see my Aerostich suit hanging on the wall beside the dresser.

After settling in and walking the ITS to the bridge, I crossed the street to a restaurant for supper. This establishment, along with its bar and pool tables, is named “83 North” in honor of the nearby ITS and sports the most unique decor I have ever seen, for along with football helmets over the pool tables, there are snowmobile hoods mounted above the bar!

The plan is to head toward Millinocket tomorrow morning, pick up ME-11 and travel it to US-1 in Fort Kent and thence to Madawaska. I hope to post again tomorrow night!

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